Seoul Food

Meet Kenny, a Korean-American changing the gyopo experience and an entire neighborhood at the center of Seoul.
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After moving from Los Angeles to Seoul, unexpected entrepreneur, Kenny, a Korean-American, who grew up eating his mother’s Korean cooking and tacos, spotted a gap in the market. He craved the Mexican food he grew up with and knew there were other foreign-born and raised Koreans, called gyopo, living in Seoul who shared his desire for the comfort food of their home countries. Back then, restaurants in Seoul were mostly Korean. Inspired by LA’s food trucks, he opened Korea’s first Ko-Mex restaurant, fusing Korean and Mexican with dishes like slow-roasted pork topped with kimchi and smothered in cheese and jalapenos on a bed of fries

His success inspired a wave of gyopo to open restaurants including a New York-style deli and an Alabama barbecue joint, transforming a once-seedy area with a colorful post-war history into a trendy spot and an ecosystem for food entrepreneurs. These unexpected entrepreneurs and first-time restaurant owners also changed the gyopo experience, previously described as feeling caught between two worlds. “It’s cool to be gyopo now.”

In Seoul Food, meet Kenny, a Korean-American changing the gyopo experience and an entire neighborhood at the center of Seoul. Hear from other gyopo he inspired to open fusion restaurants. And wander the streets where a red-light district from the 1960s has evolved into a hotspot for Seoul’s trendiest bars and restaurants.

Kenny was a classic “gyopo,” an ethnic Korean, born and raised in another country. He could barely cook when he moved to Seoul in 2007 and could only speak basic Korean.

Growing up in southern California his favorite foods were tacos and his Mom’s Korean home cooking.

Shortly after arriving in Seoul, Kenny spotted a gap in Seoul’s restaurant scene. “There are quite a few gyopo. We all wanted the comfort food we grew up with.”

Inspired by the success of LA’s food trucks, Kenny opened Korea’s first Ko-Mex restaurant, fusing the two cuisines with dishes like slow roasted pork topped with kimchi, smothered in cheese and jalapenos on a bed of fries. “Korean food is representative of Korean people – very feisty; it’s a good fit with Mexican food.”

Within two years, Kenny inspired a wave of gyopo to open restaurants serving mashups of Korean culture and Western influences. At the same time, the success of his restaurant and others transformed an entire neighborhood in central Seoul. Home to a U.S. military base and a once-seedy red-light district nicknamed Hooker Hill, it became a trendy location and an unexpected ecosystem for food entrepreneurs.

Kenny mentored another unexpected entrepreneur – Linus, a Korean-American who grew up in the south, and spent months perfecting his brisket before opening a BBQ restaurant.

These first-time restaurant owners changed not only the area, but also the gyopo experience. “It was hard to be gyopo but now it’s cool.”

In Seoul Food, you’ll meet Kenny, a Korean-American who changed things for gyopo, and an entire neighborhood.  Hear how he and others found success by re-interpreting their Mom’s cooking with the food of their youth. And wander the streets where a place with a colorful, post-war past has evolved into a hotspot.